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Actual Q & A... from people like YOU!

Unsightly pool surface stains are just that, unsightly.


Heavy metals in water is somewhat common. Iron, Copper, Manganese, Cobalt can all leave stains that are difficult to remove. Here's what other pool owners have asked...


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Question:My question is I have black spots adhering to the sides and bottom of the pool, they are impossible to remove.  I have a pressure cleaner but this only cleans a tiny area at a time.   Do you have a solution that would enable me to clean the whole pool? 

Answer: It sounds as if you are dealing with a metal or mineral stain.  If the pool structure is fiberglass, it's possible that it could be a cobalt stain.  I don't know if your local shops in Australia have Jack's Magic, but look for it & the Jack's Magic Stain ID kit (we can ship the Stain ID kit to you).  A secondary product would be BioGuard's Stain Remover. 

When the pool is filled, it will actually be a bit easier to treat.  Make sure that the water is properly balanced - pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness.

Question: We have a 25 year old fiberglass pool.  This summer we had what I thought was a stain.  With the help of another dealer, we balanced and applied treatments of "Stain Out" at least three times, with the "stain" coming back each time.  Then they sent me to another dealer that worked more with fiberglass.We acid washed and rebalanced only to have the “stain" come back.  It will not brush or vacuum off, but you can tell where kids have touched the side with hands or feet.  Could this be mustard algae and if so, how do I get rid of it?
 
Answer: I suspect that you have a stain "within" the fiberglass itself.  After 25 years the gel coat finish would have begun to "break down" & loose a lot of "gloss" & finish.  ANY metals can then get in there & are a relative "permanent" stain.
 
I am 99.9% sure that it is NOT an algae problem - although the hand & foot print part bug me. Could be due to the natural oils in people's skin. Not sure.
 
All that being said, I would recommend treating it as a metal staining issue.  You can test this out by using the Jack's Magic Stain ID kit.  It works great in figuring out which metal(s) are being problems.  You'll find it in our
Pool Water Care section.  With the type of stain being narrowed down, you'll be able to properly treat it with the appropriate product & have a better chance of removing it.
 
Keep in mind that the longer that stains are "left" (although it appears you've been very diligent in attempting to treat it), the more difficult they are to fully remove.
 
I did a bit more research this afternoon & it confirmed my thoughts of your stain.  If the stains look sort of "spider webby" AND because of the fiberglass shell itself, the staining is very likely cobalt.  Cobalt (in trace amounts) is typically found in the gel coating of the fiberglass.  As the gel coat ages & becomes more "porous" (worn is a better word), becomes exposed & is oxidized causing the staining that you see. Jack's Magic is going to be the best product for you to use in treating the cobalt stain. Uses the Stain ID kit to make sure that is the stain, and then treat it appropriately, the new cobalt treating product will be up on the website in by Friday.  Be sure to keep the water well balanced.
 
Question: I resurfaced my pool with diamond bright two years ago.  This summer pool stains on walls and shallow end began.  I had a professional come out and remove most stains on walls.  However there is a light stain on bottom of shallow end that shows up when sun goes down. It is only on bottom of shallow end. Any suggestions?

Answer: What you describe is really typical of many pools in the south.  Iron or "hard water staining" is really prevalent in Florida. This will be an ongoing issue for you.

Here are a couple of things to do help make it better.  It won't necessarily completely eliminate the staining, but will certainly help now & in the future.  Staining problems are a long term issue.

1. Keep the water well balanced all of the time: pH (7.4 - 7.6), total alkalinity (80 - 100 ppm), calcium hardness (200 - 250 ppm).
2. Add a regular dosage of Jack's Magic Blue Stuff.  Blue Stuff will help take care of the staining now (noticeable results in about 7 - 10 days) & work on preventing further
staining in the future.  Jack's really is the best stuff to use with metal staining.  Use Blue Stuff monthly to keep the staining away.  Don't skip.
 
Question: I have iron in my fill water and it oxidized when chlorinated.  I have used nearly every product I can find to sequester and vacuum iron deposits from the pool.  Each product had even worse side effects (high level of phosphates cause extreme algae problems). Will switching to a non chlorine pool still require me to get rid of the iron in the water?

Answer: You may want to use Jack's Magic Blue Stuff.  No phosphates & a terrific problem solver when it comes to iron & other metals. Non chlorine pool care systems are not going to be a "cure" for the iron in the water.  The iron can still be oxidized by ANY shock treatment or oxidizer. Using Jack's Magic on a regular basis will better control the iron & metals issue.