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Chlorine Demand
- Par Pool & Spa has a good handle on how to treat this growing issue.
If you haven't dealt with it yet, you will
Question:
I've been having the "disappearing chlorine" problem and I am trying to
achieve breakpoint chlorination.
I
have an 8500 gallon pool and I added appx 2 lbs of non-chlorine based
shock, then 6 lbs of chlorine based shock - that was Tuesday night (and
added two tablets in the chlorinator).
48 hours later I used one of those new test kits that tests for both
free and combined chlorine and here's what I got:
1st try - 20ppm FAC, 1.5ppm combined
2nd try (20 minutes later) 17.5ppm FAC, 1.0 combined
Do you think I have achieved it? If not, what else do I need to do?
Response:
If you're holding onto 17 ppm FAC, the 1.0ppm CC shouldn't make a big
difference. Retest after 2 days to verify that the chlorine is still
holding. It should be least 10.0 ppm FAC. If it drops down to 3.0 or
less, I would recommend shocking with another 10 to 12 lbs. of shock.
Also, what is the pH? If the pH is low (under 6.8 especially), you will
burn through chlorine quickly.
Follow Up Question:
Thanks for the advice - I just tested again this morning, 4 days later,
and I think I might have "jumped the grand canyon"...
I've got 9.5 FAC and 0.5 CC, my PH is around 7.2, maybe a tad higher
(hard to tell for sure with the color coding). Do you agree that I have
achieved breakpoint chlorination?
If so, is it safe to swim with chlorine at these levels? How about
using the attached hot tub? I'm thinking it might be too high for the
hot tub, but maybe not the pool? What would you say is the safe limit
of FAC to swim? (My 3 year old is getting a little antsy)
Thanks again for the advice. By the way, I read a lot of different
articles about chlorine demand and breakpoint chlorination in my search
to fix the problem, and I must say that your website was the most
informative, and easiest to understand.
Follow up response:
Congratulations!! It all sounds good. The chlorine is a little high.
Typically we want to wait for the chlorine level to drop to under 3.0
ppm, but...many water parks & commercial pools often have chlorine
levels as high or higher. If your daughter has sensitive skin, you may
want to keep her out. But a few minutes in the pool with a good shower
afterward should be fine.
In the hot tub, you're going to get a good "gas off" of chlorine between
the warmer water & the jet action. It should come down relatively
quickly.
You can also turn down or off your automatic chlorinator or remove the
chlorine tabs or sticks from the skimmer for a day or two also. Put
them back in when the chlorine level has gone to under 3.0 ppm.
We have a new pool care website launched (www.pool-care.net). Its
sister site is more functional (www.spa-care.info). They're both
dedicated to pool & spa care info only, most is going to enhance the
content that you've already seen. We'll include your question in the
"We've been asked..." section.
Question:
Can a non-chlorine shock help to oxidize the contaminants rather than
adding the high volume of chlorine shock necessary to reach the break
point in a pool with a chlorine demand issue?
Response:
A non chlorine shock or oxidizer like BioGuard Oxysheen will break up
some to most of the chloramines that are adding to the chlorine demand,
but will normally not get you to breakpoint. In REALLY high chloramine
situations, we normally use Oxysheen to bring those chloramines down
first (usually at a rate of 2 lbs per 10,000 gallons which is a little
overkill). When using ANY kind of shock treatment, be sure to remove
the solar blanket or automatic cover so that all of the oxidized junk
can "gas off" into the air. After a couple of days, we'll do a second
Chlorine Demand test & reevaluate the Chlorine Demand.
I know that's a "sort of" answer, unfortunately, there are too many
variables when it comes to chlorine demand & chloramines are just a part
of that equation.
Question:
Looking for info & think I found the right place-use the same brand of
chemicals as advertised on your site-Having a rough start with the pool
this year & finding the store personnel not as knowledgeable as I would
hope-Our pool had 2 dead squirrels plus tons of algae-ugh...have it
pretty clean by now by alternating clean filter cartridges, along with
algaecide & Smart Shock- Finally brought the water in to be
tested-showing zero level of chlorine-computer testing called for 17
bags of Burn Out-
Of course that sounded ridiculous (little did I know) and since the
print outs in the past usually recommend overkill on some of the
products- I bought a case of 12 bags- I was concerned about what it
would do to the pool liner -Store employees did not explain well enough,
said I could try 6 bags one day, then 6 the next.... Any way-I now
realize that I will need more shock at one time to break the combined
chlorine-but am still quite apprehensive about that many bags dissolving
without damage to the liner-Even after stirring the foam from the 6 bags
& brushing some did not appear dissolved- Can you recommend an
equivalent amount of liquid chlorine for a pool with approx. 13,000 +
gallons of water-realize I will then probably have to add Lo & Slo to
adjust the pH...Or should I just go for it & try the 17 bags at once?
Response:
I would fear that the 17 bags will be insufficient. Get another sample
to them & make them do a chlorine demand test. If they don't have the
new AccuDemand 30 station, tell them to invest the $500.00 + in it!
Alex & the normal BioGuard test station will only take into
consideration breakpoint chlorination and not chlorine demand. Our own
in-store tests show a BIG difference between the 2 tests -- normally
calling for 2 to 3 times (so in your case 30 to 50 lbs. Burn Out) the
amount to satisfy the demand!! I'm not kidding! The good news is it
works! Our customers report back dramatic changes, relatively quickly.
As to liquid chlorine, that will be your biggest waste of money that you
could do. Liquid has only about 12% available chlorine (when it's
initially packaged) as compared to about 60% with Burn Out.
That's the good, bad & ugly. But, it's the way things go.
Understanding chlorine demand is of growing importance.
Follow Up Question:
Thank you for your prompt response-I plan to call my local store (NY) to
check on the chlorine demand testing-In an effort to do anything other
than buy & add up to 50 lbs. of any product I did call another store who
recommended using 3 bags of non-chlorine shock-potassium monopersulfate
to break the chlorine lock-Does BioGuard have a product like that?
Thought I'd give that approach a try-How can you tell if the lack of
chlorine reading is due to a lock or demand? Might be less expensive to
drain a third of the pool and refill???
Follow Up Response:
3 bags of monopersulfate (BioGuard Oxysheen) are not going to do
anything. 8 to 10 will have some effect. When you're trying to take
care of a chlorine demand / chloramine problem, you can't play with it.
Trying to save money is only going to cost you more, very soon. Not to
mention a continuing problem all season long. That's why the chlorine
demand test is so important.
A partial drain & fill will help, BUT then you have all of that
rebalancing of the water to do. AND it's not going to rectify the
problem. The problem will continue to worsen as the summer goes on &
you want to use the pool.
Our local chlorine demand testing is showing superb results. Customers
aren't necessarily happy with the cost, but their problems are done &
over with.
Question:
I am having a chlorine problem with my 19,000 inground vinyl liner
pool. My combined chlorine is 10 and my free chlorine is 0. My PH is
7.7 with Total Alkalinity 128. My pool dealer says to add 35 bags of
shock. I understand I need to achieve breakpoint chlorination (your
website has some good info, by the way). Is there a more economical way
to do this?
What if I wait a few days- will the Combined Chlorine do down? And if I
do super chlorinate, do you recommend regular chlorine shock or the
chlorine free? How long do you think it will be until the chlorine
levels return to a normal and safe swimming level?
Response:
If you were my local customer, I would first have you use 10 - 12 lbs.
of a non-chlorine shock to help bring down the combined chlorine. I
would be afraid that the 35 lbs might not be enough & would make the
situation worse. Hopefully your dealer has a chlorine demand station to
give you an accurate test (look for a BioGuard dealer with the new Accu-
Demand 30 test station, it's 99.99% accurate). After adding the
non-chlorine shock, such as BioGuard Oxysheen, retest it after 24
hours. When it's under 4.0, then do a chlorine shock.
Unfortunately, there's no easy way to deal with this situation. The
combined chlorine will not go away; if anything it will worsen. You're
on the right track! |