Question:
I was checking the website to find out about the correct TDS level to be maintained in
the swimming Pool………

1.  Can you please advise as to what should be the correct TDS (in terms of PPM)
to be maintained? (Now TDS is 80 ppm). I have a doubt that lower ppm level
will corrode the galvanized pipes.

2.  Can we add Hydro Chloric Acid (diluted) in order to balance the PH? ( Now PH is 9.9 )

Response:
There is no maximum TDS level per se.  However, the pool & spa chemical industry has
traditionally maintained a level of LESS THAN 2000 ppm.  TDS level has NO bearing on the
pH level & corrosion of pipes, filters, etc.

The only exception to this guideline is when the pool is utilizing saline chlorination via
electrolysis.  In that case it is very normal for TDS to range between 3500 and 4000 ppm.

Yes, hydrochloric acid can be used to lower pH.  Be VERY careful.  Always re-test the
water after 4 to 5 hours then readjust as necessary.

Follow Up Question:
I am clear for the use of Hydro Chloric Acid (diluted). OK. 

But about TDS, I have seen that the rain water (TDS is 0 PPM & 7 PH) has bad effects of 
the Galvanized Iron (G I) pipes.

The pipes get corroded very fast, is it because of higher Oxidation capacity of water 
because of its cleanliness (0 PPM & 7 PH).

Because, at 0 ppm this water attack the metal & form oxides where as if water has some 
impurities (around 500 ppm), it forms a thin scale on the contact surface of the metal 
pipes & like that, Oxidation of the pipes can be avoided.

Is it true..........?

FYI - We are using 320,000 liters Indoor Swimming Pool (warm water) & maintaining 32 
degree C.

Outside ambient temperature is 14 degree C in our place of work at 14000 ft altitude.

To maintain the Heat, we are using Diesel Fired; Fire Tube Boiler & recently, the Boiler was 
broken.

We have found the Heavy scale formation on the Tubes.

We are also trying to investigate the reason for this.....

Another thing is the usage of CHLORINE. (33 % NaOCl / CaOCl, Sodium / Potassium Hypo 
Chlorite 
solution is used with the Dosing pump.)

We are maintaining 2 to 3 ppm chlorine.

Is it too high?

What are the other Alternates to replace Chlorine in order to remain? safe (storing & 
handling hazards) 
& to maintain the same Hygiene standards.  

Follow Up Response:   

Remember that rain water is distilled water & water itself is "the universal solvent".  Water 
will naturally "want" to dissolve anything that it comes in contact with.

Galvanized pipe WILL corrode over time; sometimes a very short time. 

As far as the scale is concerned:  is it scale (white, flaky substance) or is it corrosion 
(brownish, uneven surfaces)?

Also, be sure to maintain a proper Total Alkalinity (about 80 ppm to 120 ppm & Calcium 
Hardness (about 200 ppm to 275 ppm) in the water.  These 2 properties, plus the pH level, 
will have the most effect on the piping than anything else.

I hope that clarifies some of the issues for you.  Let me know.

Follow Up Question:
Points noted. 

Pl also advise about CHLORINE dosing & its ppm to be maintained?

Is Cl2 dosing safe for humans?

Thanks once again.

Follow Up Response: 

Chlorine is the most popular way to sanitize water. Whether it is water used for swimming, 
bathing or drinking, Chlorine is King.

Chlorine should be added to attain a Free Available Chlorine level of 2.5 -3.5 ppm when 
used in a commercial or public application.  Typical residential levels range from 1.0 - 2.0 ppm.

The actual dosing will depend on what form of chlorine is being used: liquid, granular (dichloro 
or calcium hypochlorite), slow dissolving sticks or tablets of trichloro.  You should follow the 
label instructions that are on the particular product's container.

Question:
My husband came in last night with a water sample. He was told to use the following:
25lbs of alkalinity increaser
1lb of ph increaser
4 lbs of calcium hardness increaser
and 6 bags of burnout.

He told the man our pool was 4ft tall and 27 ft round. this is incorrect. it is 24 ft round and 52" high. are they still the correct amounts for the chemicals given the correct size above. I also wanted to know if burnout is shock. The amounts seemed a little high and before I added the chemicals I wanted to double check.

Response:
I would go ahead & add the full dosages.  With all of this heat, you're most likely going to be adding at least a couple of inches of water before the weekend.  That will change the chemistry again.  6 lbs. of Burn Out for your size pool is very normal at this time of year.  When the temps are closing in on 100 & your water temp is close to 90, you're using about DOUBLE THE CHLORINE that you would normally use at 80 degrees.

Question:
I used chlorine in my pool for many years with no problems. Then I tried Baquacil a few months ago and it was terrible. Worst was that when I used my swim jets the water turned white and foamy. I called Baquacil and they told me to use a special algaecide since they say the regular one can foam and turn the water white when you used water features in a pool.

The new type of algaecide didn't make any difference. So I switched back to chlorine- its clear and sparkling, EXCEPT when I use the swim jets! There was no Baquacil left when I switched, so why are the jets still making the water white and cloudy?
 
It never happened in 7 years of chlorine, so I'm wondering if the old Baquacil algaecide is still lurking in the pool. (The last time I added that was several weeks ago.) How can I get my swim jets to not react with whatever it is? Is there a chemical I can use to get my pool back to normal? 

Help! I want to use the jets without the pool getting all white and yucky!

Response:
It sounds more like a LOW calcium hardness (CH) problem PLUS a little extra algaecide. Adjust the CH to about 200 - 225 ppm with Balance Pak 300.

The excess algaecide will work itself out on its own.  That should take care of the foaming problem for you. 

Question:
I have an easy set 10'x30" pool for my kids and was wondering if I should add chlorine tablets to my filter inside the pump or in a floating chlorinator? And how many tablets should I use at a time? Also when I shock my pool do you suggest powder or liquid shock and how much each time? Thanks for your time

Response:
On these pools we always recommend using granular chlorine like BioGuard Super Soluble.  Putting a tablet inside the pump is going to rot out the seal FAST.  Floaters you always have to worry about the kids playing with it.  The Super Soluble is great because you can control how much to add daily (your size pool = 2 to 3 tablespoons per day for normal use) add more with more use.  Also use a good algaecide like BioGuard Algicide 28-10.  Don't forget the pH!  The Super Soluble can also be used as a shock treatment.